MARRAKESH MEDINA
MONKEY IN THE CAGE!
In February/March 2025 I visited Marrakesh Medina for a second time since Feb/Mar 2016.
Never again.
In this collection the b&w images and some colour photographs are taken with a small Lumix of 5.1 MP. The images will follow the same sequence as my travels. The text reflects only my own opinions and experience of a culture that left me feeling hunted for my money and often angry.
It wasn't all bad. Eating is very cheap, my Riad was a small oasis of tranquility with a fantastic breakfast and the weather was a perfect break from England.
Generally people were helpful but at the same time predatory. Difficult to separate the two kinds and often that was the problem. Back in 2016, the second type - the gang predatory element wasn't there. You learn quickly and by observing you will see it happening more than often. How disappointing.
The police presence is evident but most of the time looking at their phones sitting in their vehicles. At passport control leaving the airport with massive lines of waiting to go through, in our checking point one of the policeman was watching a football game on his phone while one was anxious about losing your flight.
Currency: 100 Moroccan Dirham = 10 Euro
Badii Palace. Entrance 100 Dirham.
2016 - Hidden view Badii Palace
The following two images show what was behind. Badii Palace
2016 Badii Palace
Art installations - 2016 Badii Palace
The Tanneries - Dar Debbagh
I had no intention to go there. Not a pleasant walk through busy streets with a lot of petrol fume pollution and traffic. I was going to the Marrakesh museum and I asked a young local for directions. I was told that it was a special Holy day and the museum was closed but he would direct me to a place where Berber women were coming down from the mountains to display their embroidery etc. Cutting the story short, and after following a man that "happened" to go there you arrive at the Tanneries, and no Berber women.
A local gives you a fresh mint for the bad smell and a tour of the most dirty and foul Urine smell (ammonia) at the work area. Some of you may find it interesting but if you have children with you please avoid the experience just for health reasons. "It is like this since the 11th century" the guide said to me with a lot of plastic bottles around and contemporary rubbish.
Then you are directed to a Berber shop and a Moroccan hard salesman there demonstrates hand made carpets after an "honest" talk of how legitimate they are and contribute taxes to the state etc. Well, the prices nothing less than 1200 Euro and they only use Fedex for delivery in England, and give an official receipt etc. I moved to the leather section with bags at around 120 Euro minimum but they don't give receipts for leather, surprisingly only for carpets.
Coming out I was confronted by three local men including the local guide from the Tanneries asking for 20 Euro for his 15min tour and further down I was confronted by the young man whom I had asked originally for directions to the museum, and he was asking for 10 Euro for his deception.
They were a well organised gang of at least 5 to 6 people dragging people there and taking their money. Needless to say that it is hopeless to approach any of the authorities.
As a photojournalist with at least 30 years experience around the world I have a good experience of tourist trap predatory cultures, but my previous experience of Marrakesh and the "good muslim" myth caught me unaware.
The Tanneries - Dar Debbagh
The Tanneries - Dar Debbagh
The Tanneries - Dar Debbagh
The Tanneries - Dar Debbagh
The Tanneries - Dar Debbagh
If you love donkeys and animal welfare, you may be very disappointed in what you see not only at the Tanneries but all around Marrakesh.
The Tanneries - Dar Debbagh
The Tanneries - Dar Debbagh
Price 1400 Euro. No different from Greek or Turkish folk carpets.
The Souks are overcrowded and constantly crossed with motorbikes and donkey drawn vehicles.
This is happening not only in the Souks but everywhere.
Marrakesh Medina 2016
Days gone by.
Jemaa El Fan square
You want a henna tattoo? Many amateurs and non-Moroccan henna tattooists who would like to take 20 to 40 euro for a bad job.
Be selective if you want one and more importantly agree to the price before work.
Tourists have been grabbed and the tattooist will do a small design on one of your fingers as an example and before you know they ask you money for what they have done. Be aware if you don't pay they become aggressive and in no time other Moroccan women will come as witnesses and good luck if you call the police.
Jemaa El Fan square
Jemaa El Fan square
Marrakesh museum.
Marrakesh museum.
Small traffic accident, big fight.
Badii Palace
My second visit to the palace was not for any other reason than just to escape the noise and the pollution of the town. It was interesting observing people being photographed for the memory "I was there", in a public place.
Badii Palace
Badii Palace
Badii Palace
Badii Palace
Young turtles for sale in many markets but also birds of prey, small lizards, snakes like cobras with their teeth removed and chickens for eating in terribly suffocating cages.
Dar El Bacha
Always a long line of people to get in to any museum etc.
Dar El Bacha
Dar El Bacha
Dar El Bacha
Dar El Bacha
Why are you there ?
Dar El Bacha
Why are you there ?
Dar El Bacha
Le Jardin Secret. Entrance 100 Dirham.
Le Jardin Secret
Le Jardin Secret
Le Jardin Secret
Jemaa El Fan square
If you love horses, please don't take the ride.
Jemaa El Fan square
If you love horses, please don't take the ride.
Jemaa El Fan square
If you love horses, please don't take the ride.
Jemaa El Fan square
"Jump monkey jump."
Ok, I understand the cultural level of the locals, but what I can't understand is why European tourists pay money to be photographed with a monkey. On the other hand I witnessed an old man with a monkey putting so much pressure on an older European couple for a photograph that in the end the older gentleman give him a paper note money and he left them alone and no photograph. That was the tactics of the Monkey man and I am sure he has done it before.
Jemaa El Fan square mosque
The Pentagram and the Crescent. National symbols of Morocco.
Jemaa El Fan square
Monkey to be photographed, another one in the cage, sunglasses for sale and motorbikes in the middle of Jemaa El Fan square.
Jemaa El Fan square
During the evening there are many musical bands playing all at the same time and together with the shouting of the sellers for toys and tourist memorabilia, creates an unpleasant cacophony of mixed sounds.
Bahia Palace.
Always a long line of people to get in to any museum etc. Entrance 100 Dirham.
Bahia Palace.
Bahia Palace.
"I need more"
Bahia Palace.
Bahia Palace.
Bahia Palace.
Bahia Palace.
Bahia Palace.
Bahia Palace.
Bahia Palace.
Bahia Palace.
You are meant to see the image in the centre, but? Look below.
I was lucky to see the Palace back in 2016 with a fraction of the 10 Euro price that it is now.
This is what you see
Bahia Palace.
Most of the attractions you see in the photographs are out of view.
Too late when you have crossed the entrance, you are in.
I can understand that they may have had some earthquake damage here and at some other tourist attractions and repairs may be needed, but I think that a small notice would have been respectful to the visitors.
Saadian Tombs 2016 - free to see.
Now 100 Dirham entrance.
Judge by yourself.
A long line of people to get through passports. It took me 45 minutes. Before that they were two security checks on my hand luggage and third one going through the boarding gate.
Well, you can't help but think that everywhere in Marrakesh there is a huge number of public servants employed by the state in unnecessary positions. I have experienced that in another country where nearly 75% of the workforce were public servants at one point. And this means state control of its citizens. This is just my observation.
Back in 2016 many of the places which I paid for now 100 dirham (50 dirham for the Moroccan citizens), were free to see or pay very little. That was the attraction for me to come to Marrakesh - many places to see with low costs and few crowds. So your spending money went to the people in the street. Now you need a minimum 1000 dirham/100 Euro if you are two people to see just five main attractions, and there are many more. Some are poorly exhibited.
I don't know about you - the reader - but for me this amount of money is not a problem, but what is a big problem, is the value for money!
Not to worry! You don't have to give up anything that is yours because, perhaps, nobody wants it.
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